Tonka

This contemporary Indian diner sits behind an unmarked laneway entrance in Melbourne’s CBD. Inside, an open kitchen hums behind a dining room that mixes industrial lines with soft lighting.

The menu is built around bold, modern reworks of subcontinental classics, using seasonal local produce and precise techniques. We’d start with the soft-shell crab spiked with chilli mayo, then move to the signature slow-cooked lamb curry – rich, aromatic and deeply satisfying.

Vegetarians are well served, with paneer dishes and clever treatments of in-season vegetables. The drinks list favours wines suited to spice and cocktails infused with Indian flavours. Bookings are essential after 6pm.