Rosetta

Occupying a rambling old mansion in Mexico City’s Roma Norte neighbourhood, Rosetta is the flagship restaurant of chef Elena Reygadas and one of the defining restaurants of the city’s contemporary dining scene. Awarded a Michelin star and a regular presence on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, it has evolved considerably since Reygadas opened it in 2010, moving from its Italian-influenced beginnings towards cooking increasingly shaped by Mexican ingredients, seasons and producers.

The restaurant unfolds through a series of characterful rooms filled with plants, patterned tiles, vintage furniture and softly aged surfaces. There’s an elegance to it, but little of the formality that might be expected from a restaurant with Rosetta’s international reputation. The dining rooms feel warm and lived-in, while tables spill into a leafy courtyard that feels particularly at home in Roma Norte.

Reygadas’ menu changes with the seasons, drawing heavily on vegetables, herbs and produce sourced from small Mexican producers. Pasta and Italian technique remain part of Rosetta’s vocabulary, sitting alongside distinctly Mexican ingredients and preparations. Dishes might include hoja santa with white cacao and fermented greens, sweet potato tamal with salsa macha, or handmade pasta built around whatever is at its best at the time.

Save room for something from the pastry kitchen. Bread has become an important part of Reygadas’ work — eventually spawning the much-loved Panadería Rosetta — and the restaurant’s desserts and baked goods share the same emphasis on good ingredients and deceptively simple combinations. Rosetta may now be one of Mexico City’s most celebrated reservations, but much of its appeal lies in how personal it still feels.