The coolest places in San Miguel Chapultepec, Mexico City

Comal Oculto

Single-chef comal antojitos served shoulder-to- shoulder at one long communal table — gordita especial, enmolada and flauta with café de olla; value-forward dining.

Casa Gilardi

Barragán’s final formal project, where colour, water and light meet in a pool room defined by a pink wall rising from the water.

Kurimanzutto

Ambitious contemporary art in a converted 1949 industrial bakery, with site-responsive shows by major Mexican and international artists.